Back to Morocco: Under the Spell of Jemaa el-Fnaa's Snake Charmers

They say third time’s the charm — and with Morocco, that couldn’t be more true. This recent trip was my third visit, and somehow it just keeps getting better. There’s something about Marrakech that wraps around you — the sounds, the colors, the smell of spices and mint tea in the air — it’s a kind of chaos I crave. I’ve fallen for this city hard, and I fall a little more each time.

We went for my friend Giuliana’s birthday, which gave the trip an extra sense of celebration. She’s just finished restoring a riad in the heart of the medina with her friend Bruno, an Italian architect who now calls Marrakech home. To

mark the occasion, she threw an unforgettable party at the riad. The place glowed under soft candlelight, with locals and expats mingling in the courtyard, sipping mint tea and cocktails. The atmosphere was warm, bohemian, slightly surreal — a perfect mix of elegance and Moroccan soul.

We based ourselves at Numa Riad, a beautifully curated space owned by an Italian couple. The décor blends earthy textures with sophisticated design touches — think tadelakt walls, intricate tiles, and vintage lighting. But what really stood out was the staff: Youssef, Smail, and Omar, were kind, attentive and consistently made us feel at home. 

Our first evening kicked off at Terrasse des Épices, tucked above the souks with views that stretch across the rooftops of the medina. Lanterns flickered, the air was warm, and the sound of the city hummed below. The food — classic Moroccan with a modern touch — was just what we needed to settle in.

ON Saturday we wandered the tranquil courtyard of the Ben Youssef Madrasa, always a highlight with its masterful carvings and quiet grandeur. We visited the Jardin Secret, an oasis of green and light tucked away behind high walls, and sipped coffee on its serene rooftop café. We also revisited the Bahia Palace, which never fails to impress with its tiled courtyards and grand arches.

We also stopped for tea at 1112, a charming, quiet café and boutique with beautifully curated homeware and accessories. The energy is calm, the details are thoughtful, and — of course — I couldn’t resist picking up a few pieces.

Another highlight  of the day was a visit to Celine Spa, a hammam experience that redefined relaxation. Elegant yet traditional, it felt more like a hidden sanctuary than a spa. The hammam itself was steamy and cleansing, and the scrub left us all floating. The massage that followed was pure bliss — strong, intuitive, and deeply restorative. If you’re looking for a proper Moroccan spa experience with refined touches, this is the one.

That night we all went for a big group dinner at Bo-Zin, a legendary spot on the road to Ourika. It’s a lush garden oasis with a sexy, loungey vibe — candlelit tables, flowing curtains, and music that evolves with the night. By the time the DJ took over, the mood had shifted into full-on party. You start with couscous and end dancing under the stars. It’s that kind of place. 

On Sunday, we left the medina for a desert escape in Agafay. After a short drive, we arrived at Scarabeo Camp, a dreamlike setting of white tents scattered across lunar landscapes. There’s nothing quite like sipping mint tea with views of the Atlas Mountains in the distance. We spent the day lounging, then went on a two-hour quad bike adventure, which took us all the way to a dam-turned-lagoon. Speeding through the dust, laughing under our helmets, it felt both cinematic and grounding.

That evening, we returned to the medina for dinner at Le Fondouk, a rooftop terrace with a candlelit view over the old city. The food is refined Moroccan, the vibe intimate and romantic. The perfect way to wind down after a day in the desert.

Of course, no visit to Marrakech is complete without diving into Jemaa el-Fnaa at night. The square comes alive in a way that’s impossible to describe — fire-eaters, snake charmers, dancers, drummers, and storytellers. There’s a kind of electric spell in the air, a shared joy that draws you in. You just stand still and let it all swirl around you.

But the soul of the city, for me, lives in the souks. I spent all of Monday wandering them solo, getting gloriously lost and making deals like a local. I covered it all — Haddadine (the metalworkers), Cherratin (leather goods), Attarine (spices and scents), Babouches (shoes), and Foundouk Tadlaoui with its beautifully crafted rugs and antiques. I could honestly spend days here and still discover new corners.

What did I buy: a kaky suede bag I am loving at the moment and two salads bowls in the motivs of Fez.

One of my favorite new discoveries this trip was Different, a sleek, modern concept store in the medina. It’s a refreshing take on Moroccan style — contemporary, clean, and beautifully curated. A great contrast to the traditional souk finds, and the perfect place to shop for elevated homeware, fashion, and design objects.

Of course, there’s still so much more to see — but I’ve already ticked off many of the “classics” on previous trips, including the Ourika Valley, which I highly recommend if you haven’t been. This time was more about savoring the familiar, revisiting favorite places, and discovering new ones with people I love.

Morocco keeps calling me back — and each time, it feels more like home.