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Be a Caprese (no, not the salad)!

I love a nice Caprese salad and I love the place where it comes from even more: Capri! 

We went to Capri at the end of September for a long weekend and re-descovering the beauty of the island after a long absense was the best part.

Tourists on day-trips flog to the island en masse on a daily basis from Naples. A part from that the island is tiny and the amount of people allowed probably exceeds what the reasonable number of visitors should be, on a day trip, you just don't have time to explore all of what the island has to offer. 

We were lucky enough to be guests of our friend Francesca, someone who knows the island very well. Not everyone will be so lucky but that really changes how you experience the place. So I thought I would write down for you what we did in those days. Like that, if you have more time, you can do what a real Caprese does!

You will get probably to Capri on a ferry from the Amalfi Coast or like we did from Naples. When you get there, the best thing to do is to take the funiculare up. The area down the port is actually not bad at all, but you do not get the views you have from the top. Be patient as you queue for it. It is usually a long queue and it's hot there!

As soon as you get off, you will be welcomed by hordes of people but already spectacular views: that view is almost nothing with respect to what else there is to see. So, do not stop there! Move on and do what we did: take a little bus to Anacapri. 

Anacapri is the second town in Capri. Less crowded but still very charming is it a good option if you want to see a side of the island which reminds you of how Capri used to be. From here we had a quick lunch and set off for a 'passeggiata'. 

We explored the Fortini track, a path along the coast where you can absorb the nature, smell and colors typical of Capri. A few kilometers from one 'fortino' (observation points built during the war) to the next until you reach the beautiful Faro (lighthouse) of Capri. The location is stunning, views at the sunset amazing. there was an amazing wedding reception ongoing when we finally got there. From the lighthouse, watch the sunset at the Faro beach. Sunset Malibu is a super fun beach bar where people casually have beers and Campari spritz while watching the sunset. Teenagers do amazing stunts from the cliff, diving into the blue water...and you forget you are even in Capri! The restaurant there is also very sought after, book in advance if you want to dine there. The view is pretty spectacular. 



If you want to stay in Anacapri for dinner, go to Gelsomina. It is high-up but they have a shuttle to pick you up. The views of Ischia (another island) from there are sensational, you feel like you can touch it!

After that you take a taxi or a bus back to Capri - if you are staying there and change for the evening. 

If you want an aperitivo in the famous Piazzetta, you need to go to Bar Tiberio. they do not take bookings so go a bit earlier to get a front row table and enjoy people watching. People watching in Capri is not like anywhere else! The cocktail to order is called Il professore.

When you are ready for dinner, just a few recommendations: Il Geranio for seafood, especially if you have a birthday to celebrate, they put together a show with each Happy Birthday song.

Second day starts with breakfast at Alberto, on  one  side of the Piazzetta. I cannot recommend anything here because everything they make is out of this world. I would say try at least two pastries and share with more with a friend! And moreover go back the next day. Did I tell you I put two kilos on the 4 days there? Ops! 


After that and depending on how long you are stay you can go to a Lido (the beach) or sightseeing. Capri is full of roman ruins and other spots of historical interest. You can visit the Gardens of Augustus, the Certosa, Tiberious's villa, Villa Lysis, Villa San Michele (to gaze out with the sphinx), and Villa Malaparte.

If you decide the sea is more your thing there are several spots where you can bathe but remember Capri has no sandy beaches so do not expect tons of space. We walk all the way down to the Faraglioni. I did not think you could get so close to them while staying on land but you can actually get so close they overshadow you (which is not great if you want to get a tan!). We went to Lido Luigi ai Faraglioni but the opposite beach, La Fontelina Beach Club is as good. You can your sun bed or mattress and can enjoy the breathtaking views from the restaurants. Although it is not cheap, it actually doesn't compare to the expensiveness of places like Ibiza or Mykonos. If you wonder where to wear the beautiful pieces you have bought on our website, you got your answer. 

The beach at the Faraglioni is one of the chicest places I have ever visited. A lot of one pieces and high wasted bikinis seen there this summer, including silk kaftans, sandals and stylish hats. To get there you have to go down a lot of steps (which then you have to do again not eh way up). The steps start at Belvedere Tragara, which is so beautiful that just that view makes it worthwhile to get there. if you are getting married in Capri, I doubt you will not get pictures at this spot! 

For aperitivo and people watching, do not miss the infamous Hotel Quisisana, and after dinner, try to get in Anima e Core - a very old dance club, probably the only one in Capri, where people dance on the tables and sing traditional songs.

Last but not least, this is a new entry in the 'must do'  and you want to go there for lunch while you are on a gozzo (typical boat from Capri): Il Riccio. Nothing to say about this place, just go, you will thank me for it!


Food: typical dishes from Capri are Raviolo Caprese, Caprese Salad, Torta Caprese, Delizia Caprese (you have to see this!) 

Shopping: best shopping streets are Via Delle Botteghe and via Camerelle. Don't leave without a typical Caprese sandals. The roman version of the Greek Sandals I would say, best place to buy them is from Costanzo in Via Roma or Bottega del Sandalo (I always go there for mine). 

 This is more or less it! Although it is a small island, there is tons to do so four days here are perfect, and of course if you can stay longer you will be a Caprese by the end of your sejour!


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