One Week in Panarea: My Summer on the Chicest of the Aeolian Islands

Panarea is tiny, glamorous, and somehow manages to feel both completely relaxed and buzzing with energy. It’s the smallest of the Aeolian Islands, but ask anyone who’s been and they’ll tell you it’s the one you never forget. We spent a week here this summer, and it unfolded in the perfect rhythm of mornings that started slowly with granita, afternoons on boats or tucked into little coves, and nights that always ended later than planned.

We stayed at Hotel La Piazza, which I can’t recommend enough. The location is unbeatable—right in the center of town, but with sweeping sea views—and the pool was a blessing on those hot afternoons when we didn’t want to move. The staff were warm and welcoming, and within a day it felt like home.

Our Arrival: A Stormy First Night

On our first evening, something unusual happened—an August storm swept over the island. After a week of sailing, we were happy to stay cozy inside, listening to the rain batter the shutters. Instead of heading out, we ordered pizza and let the storm set the tone for a week that would be filled with sunshine, but also with moments of unexpected charm.

Mornings: Coffee, Granita & Boutiques

Every morning, after a generous breakfast at the hotel,  we had the same debate: do we head to Panarea Bakery “In the Oven” or Da Claudia Bakery. Both have irresistible cannolis, but the latter won me over with its perfectly soft brioche. Sometimes we’d walk down to the port for granita at Bar del Porto café, watching people from boats and ferries come and go. (Though, as every Aeolian traveler insists, the very best granita is still at Alfredo in Salina—and yes, it’s worth the detour.)

Late mornings were for strolling through the lanes, peeking into boutiques. Raya Boutique and Bouganville Boutique are perfect for chic resort wear, while Capricci and Zizzania are stacked with breezy linens. I fell in love with Boutique Castagner, which makes the most beautiful straw shoes, bags, and hats.

A’Biddikkia and Mi Stricu are also both great for ethnic style kaftans, fisherman trousers, sandals, and scarfs. And then there’s Farmacia Castelli, where you’ll find perfumes made with Aeolian botanicals—it feels like bottling up the island to take home. I bought one which reminds my of Acqua di Sale, one of my absolute favorites 'profumi'.

And of course, in Panarea there’s an unofficial uniform: the Raya print. Everyone seems to own at least one piece—dresses, shirts, pareos—bought at the Raya Boutiques. Slip it on and you suddenly feel part of the island’s rhythm.

Afternoons: Beaches, Boats & Long Lunches

Afternoons in Panarea are about the sea. One day we walked out to Cala Junco, the most famous cove on the island, with crystal-clear water framed by dramatic rocks. There’s no shade and no food, so you have to go prepared, but it’s worth it. Another day we started at La Spiaggia della Calcara, where hot bubbles rise through the water from volcanic activity, and climbed all the way up to the top of the island. From there, you can loop around and descend to Zimmari, the only beach with parasols. It’s not my favorite—it feels a little too organized—but it’s handy if you want to stay on land and still get a swim. And if you’re there, Bridge a Mare is perfect for lunch right on the sand.

That said, the best way to spend the day is by boat. From the port, it’s easy to hire a skipper and a gommone (rigid inflatable), and spend the afternoon circling the island. You can stop at hidden bays, swim straight off the boat, and see Panarea from its most stunning angle—the sea. Go to Basiluzzo and Lisca Bianca, you won't be lonely.

Evenings: Aperitivo, Sushi & Late Nights

The magic of Panarea is in its evenings. Sunset aperitivo at Raya is non-negotiable. There’s nothing quite like watching the sunset from their terrace with a Hugo Spritz in hand, the whole sea turning shades of pink and orange.

For food, Da Pina is the island’s institution, serving beautiful fish dishes in a charming, whitewashed setting. We also tried Da Giovanna, the new restaurant run by Pina’s daughter—it has a fresh feel but carries on the tradition beautifully. Ristorante Da Carola is another standout for seafood, while Antonio il Macellaio is exactly what it sounds like: a place for meat lovers. Also do not forget Cusiritati, with another beautiful sea-view terrace, just above the port.

Later, Raya becomes a club, just as Bridge Sushi does. By day, Bridge is a stylish sushi restaurant, but after dinner, it transforms into a bar with music and dancing until the early hours.

This summer had its share of celebrity sightings too—Brad Pitt was in town, arriving on his yacht, the Black Pearl. Apparently, he was even spotted at Raya at 8am, which feels very on-brand for Panarea: nights here often stretch right into sunrise.

Balance: Yoga & Quiet Moments

To balance all the indulgence, I went to a class at Yogarea, a yoga studio with the most beautiful terrace overlooking the water. Moving through sun salutations while the sea stretched endlessly ahead was the perfect way to reset.

By the end of the week, I realized Panarea isn’t just a place—it’s a mood. It’s lazy mornings of pastries and granita, afternoons spent diving off boats into turquoise water, evenings that start with spritzes at sunset and end long after midnight, and little moments of beauty tucked into every corner. It’s linen shopping, Raya print dresses that become the island’s unofficial uniform, the thrill of spotting a Hollywood star at the bar, and the joy of living in swimsuits and sandals for days on end.

Panarea is the kind of island where time slips away, where you tell yourself you’ll go to bed early but end up still talking and laughing as the sky lightens, where even celebrities seem to blend into the crowd. A week felt both like a lifetime and not nearly enough—and I know I’ll be back.